The catalogue
Every cheese
Danablu
Jutland, Denmark
Denmark’s 1920s answer to Roquefort, made with cow’s milk and no apology.
Edam
North Holland, Netherlands
The ball in red wax that provisioned half the world’s navies.
Emmentaler
Emmental, Bern, Switzerland
The one with the holes — carbon dioxide, from a bacterium, over months.
Esrom
North Zealand, Denmark
A monastery-style washed rind that smells louder than it tastes.
Feta
Mainland Greece & Lesbos, Greece
Sheep’s milk in brine — and since 2002, only from Greece.
Fontina Val d’Aosta
Aosta Valley, Italy
The alpine melter behind fonduta, made from a single breed’s raw milk.
Fourme d’Ambert
Auvergne / Puy-de-Dôme, France
The gentlest of the great French blues, in a tall narrow cylinder.
Garrotxa
Catalonia, Spain
A grey-furred Catalan goat cheese, revived in the 1980s by back-to-the-landers.
Gorgonzola Dolce
Lombardy / Piedmont, Italy
The soft, sweet Gorgonzola — a blue you can eat with a spoon.
Grana Padano
Po Valley, Italy
Parmigiano’s older, larger, gentler cousin from across the Po Valley.
Graviera
Crete & Naxos, Greece
Greece’s take on Gruyère, made mostly from sheep’s milk.
Halloumi
Cyprus, Cyprus
The cheese that grills. Its curd is cooked, so it will not melt.
Havarti
HeroZealand, Denmark
The buttery Danish table cheese that gave this catalogue its name.
Humboldt Fog
Humboldt County, California, United States
A ripening line of ash through the middle, drawn from a dream.
Idiazábal
Basque Country / Navarre, Spain
Basque shepherds’ cheese, smoked because the huts had no chimneys.
Kashkaval
The Balkans, Bulgaria
The Balkan cousin of caciocavallo, carried east and kept.
Le Gruyère
Fribourg, Switzerland
No holes. Whatever the cartoons told you, that is Emmentaler.
Leyden
Leiden, Netherlands
Gouda’s spiced cousin, packed with cumin and caraway seed.
Limburger
Allgäu, Germany
The bacterium that makes it smell also lives on human feet. Genuinely.
Mahón-Menorca
Menorca, Spain
A square-edged Balearic cheese, rubbed orange with paprika and olive oil.
Manchego
La Mancha, Spain
Manchega sheep, La Mancha scrub, and a rind patterned by esparto grass.
Maytag Blue
Iowa, United States
Made since 1941 by the washing-machine family, from a university recipe.
Mimolette
Lille / Flanders, France
A bright orange sphere with a pitted rind, courtesy of live mites.
Morbier
Franche-Comté, France
The one with the black line through the middle.