The catalogue
10 cheeses
Caerphilly
Glamorgan, Wales
A miner’s cheese — salty enough to replace what a shift underground took out.
Cornish Yarg
Cornwall, England
Wrapped in nettles, and named after the Grays — backwards.
Edam
North Holland, Netherlands
The ball in red wax that provisioned half the world’s navies.
Fontina Val d’Aosta
Aosta Valley, Italy
The alpine melter behind fonduta, made from a single breed’s raw milk.
Garrotxa
Catalonia, Spain
A grey-furred Catalan goat cheese, revived in the 1980s by back-to-the-landers.
Havarti
HeroZealand, Denmark
The buttery Danish table cheese that gave this catalogue its name.
Morbier
Franche-Comté, France
The one with the black line through the middle.
Raclette du Valais
Valais, Switzerland
A cheese named after the act of scraping it off the fire onto a plate.
Saint-Nectaire
Auvergne, France
Volcanic pasture, rye-straw cellars, and a rind that smells of mushrooms.
Tomme de Savoie
Savoie, France
A low-fat farmhouse leftover that turned out to be delicious.